Showing posts with label northern territory. Show all posts
Showing posts with label northern territory. Show all posts

Saturday, October 18, 2014

The BIG one



The BIG one - Uluru.
Yes, it's B.I.G and it is really really good. Totally worth seeing.
We drove for ever it seemed, it really is in the middle of nowhere.
Except that there is a whole national park out there - Uluru-Kata Tjuta National park and the other part, Kata Tjutu which used to be called the Olgas should not be overlooked.
It is quite exciting on the drive in when you get your first glimpse of what is really an aussie icon.









There are many things you can do there apart from climb.
1. Walk around. It is a 12 km loop.
2. cycle around. We had our own bikes but you can hire bikes from the visitors centre and many walking people we passed asked if they could swap!
3. See it at sunset and sunset. There are parking lots set aside for sunset and sunrise viewing. The thing to do is to get to the sunset place early at least an hour before, takes chairs and snacks (it is about happy hour after all!)
You get a good spot to observe all the wonderful colour changes that happen as the sun lowers in the sky. The rock changes from brown, to tan to vibrant orange. That's what it's all about.
4. You get a fairly good view of the rock from pretty much any sandhill but the sandhills are quite fragile so they try and keep all the activity to certain ones. There is a good one at the campground with a boardwalk from the main camping area. It is particularly nice at sunrise.
5. Go to the cultural centre and get a load of the cultural implications of the area.
6. Go on a camel ride.
7. Go on a free ranger guided walk.
8. Indulge in a bit of retail therapy or browsing. There are one or two (or more) artists in residence who you can watch at work and have a chat to.
There are also several nice gift shops and outlets for local indiginous artists.
9. Look at the stars. The night sky is spectacular. There is also an astronomer in residence who does evening tours of the sky. When we were there it was Petroff who used to work with GC.
10. Go to Kata Tjuta.
A lot of people say that Kata Tjuta was their favorite part and it is certainly a specatuclar clump of rocks.
The highest is actually quite a bit higher than Uluru and they are made of the most amazing conglomerate rock - made up of rocks the average size of footballs glues together with other rocky stuff.
There is a classic walk to the Valley of the Winds. And a circuit of about 7kms. Very nice. The first bit is very popular but we found not many people did the full circuit as was  good way to get away from the crowds.

Zebra finches flock to the water station on the track -





Harriet made a rare trip with us and demonstrates how big the conglomerate rocks are!


Mr planet is dwarfed by the rocks at Kata Tjuta - see him?


Here he is!




The issue of climbing is a hot one!
The traditional owners do not want you to climb.
The national parks people don't want you to climb.
So why is it still allowed?
Some say that tourist numbers will drop and certainly we met some people who were desperate to climb. Unfortunately for them it was closed most of the time we were there due to high winds.
It also gets closed if it is too hot or for "cultural" reasons.
There is a book in the cultural centre that you can sign if you chose not to climb.
For us it didn't seem necessary to climb to appreciate the beauty of the area and we respect the wishes of the owners of the place, just as you would not ride your car round someone's front yard if they asked you not to!
It is quite dangerous in that a number of people have died over the years. And undoubtably some very unfit people attempt the climb. And there have been very many rescues as well.

But we love Uluru.
It is beautiful. From its well-known profile. To the detail you only see when you are close - the ridges running over it, the caves buried in it;s flanks, the greenery that somehow manages to cling to it. The secret waterholes, the marks made by the waterfalls which too rarely cascade down it.
The rock art stories.
The colour of the rock.
The changing colours of the rock.

I could go on and on....and if you've been there, you'll k now what I'm going on about.
And if you haven't been....then put it on your bucket list.

Monday, September 15, 2014

East or West which is best? Or big macs or little macs?



The West Macdonald ranges are longer, bigger, more regular and are covered more by national parks.
They have more gorges but also more visitors.
More campsites but bigger drives.

The east macs can be seen in a day, but you need a 4WD to get to some of the gorges.

You can also walk the west macs, along the Larapinta Trail which takes at least 2 weeks start to finish.
(We didn't, although G did section 12 which is the ascent of Mount Sonder).

We first of all stayed at the west end of the west macs, before the serious 4WD drive road begins.
Here is lovely little Redbank gorge and magnificent Mount Sonder, well known for Albert Namatjira's art.
At the opening of the gorge is an icy cold rockhole which makes exploration without a wetsuit impossible. All the waterholes are somewaht chilly and signs warn of hyperthermia even in summer!
On the day that G did the Mount Sonder thing I walked part of the way to a saddle and then a lookout. Unfortunately it was a cloudy day - not so good for photos.
The woodland campground at Redbank gorge was one of my favorites - nicely spaces sites, each with their own table and benches, pit fireplace and a gas barbeque and 2 hot plates - at each campsite!
It was byo water and wood though.









We popped in to Glen Helen Resort, mainly so G could have a swim in the gorge rockhole, but despite getting more sun than Redbank Gorge it was C.O.L.D.
He went in anyway.
The "resort" is not what you would expect - it is more of a homestead camp, but there is a nice verandah out the back with views over the gorge walls.





Another day we went to Ormiston Gorge which is a popular spot as there are hot showers! But the campsite looked a bit cramped.
Anyway there is a really fabulous walk - from the camping area to Ormiston Pound which is a huge plain enclosed by rocky crags and then through the gorge back to the main area. This involves wading through waist deep water for a couple fo metres.
Yes, it was chilly, but so refreshing after a couple of hours walk.
Also refreshing were the cold drinks from the kiosk afterwards!









Then it was time to move on - to Ellery Big Hole Campsite.
Ellery Big Hole really does have a big waterhole and it is almost bearable to swim in - at least some crazy people seemes to think so.
Also some crazy people decided to carry their canoe down and then try and paddle into a raging headwind to get through the gap and see what was the other side. One of those crazy people was also terrified!







A short drive from Ellery Creek was Serpentine Gorge with a climb to a lookout and a little rock hole that was well frequented by all sorts of birds - finches, budgies, ducks.



On the way back to Alice we stopped at Standley Chasm which is spectacular. A really narrow cleft in the red rock.
We had to bypass Simpson's Gap as we were running on empty and just managed to make it back to town.

Lookout for my post about the East Macs, when I next have the internets.


Friday, September 12, 2014

A Town Called Alice.

What a lovely surprise.
I don't know what I was expecting but Alice Springs is a really nice town.
The setting is gorgeous.
It is easy to get around.
There are bike paths everywhere and it is almost totally flat.
There is some seriuosly great coffee.
And one of the best meals ever.
The Desert Park is a must-see.
The Olive Pink Botanic Gardens has a great cafe.
You can see artworks by Albert Namatjira and other painters from Hermansberg at the Cultural Centre.
The Todd Mall has lots of gift shops and art galleries for browsing.
And there was so much we didn't see......we have to save something for next time!

view over Alice towards the Gap

bird show at the desert park

thorny devils at the desert park

spot the lizard

honeyeater in it's nest

wildflowers at the desert park
oversize emu at the Olive Pink Botanic Garden

up a tree without a paddle!

more quirky art at Olive Pink

butterfly and eremophila (emu bush)
old gaol overshadowed by the new

the Residency where the Queen stayed
old telegraph station



hey, rock wallaby, what you got in your pouch?