Messing about on the river - Lower Glenelg River paddle

While we were wandering about Victoria earlier this year we did something we have never done before - an overnight canoe trip!
The Lower Glenelg River is in the far West of Victoria, right near the South Australian border and flows into the sea at little Nelson.

the start  at Moleside Landing

It is a well-known, well-organised canoe trip.
In fact there are canoe only campsites along the way administered by Parks Victoria. The campsites need to be booked in advance as there is a maximum limit at the campsites.
There are also many more campsites along the river which can be reached by car, and walk-in campsites used by the Great South Walk walkers.

We stayed a Nelson and left our caravan in the caravan park there while we were paddling.

Our biggest problem was getting to the start of the canoe trip and then back to camp at the end.
We got the guy from Nelson Canoe and Boat hire to get us to the start at Moleside Landing.
This involved G taking me and our gear to Moleside, driving back to Nelson and getting driven back to Moleside by Mr Nelson Canoe Hire.

At Moleside there was a big group of school kids camping and getting ready to paddle too.
We were a bit perturbed that our peaceful camping and paddling would be disturbed but they started long after us and stayed at different, bigger campsites.
When we did see them it was quite entertaining to watch their steep paddling-learning curve!

As you can see we have a large canadian canoe with 3 seats. We originally got it when the kids were littleand we all fitted in.
Now we can fit our backpacks and other stuff in.

view from our first campsite

All the campsites are equipped with drop toilets and a water source, plus a table and seats. Very civilised!

It was a beautiful morning as we set off and within the first hour we saw...
- a platypus that came swimming towards us and totally eyeballed me!
- a pair of inquisitive swans
- gang gang cockatoos drinking next to the river.

We were a bit too enthusiastic and paddled for 2 hours before stopping for morning tea at Saunders Landing.
Then lunch at Prichards.

Our destination was Skipworth Springs, a small canoe camp with a jetty.
It was a hot day and we were hot and sweaty so we thought we'd have a dip....unfortunately the river bank was a couple of metres of thick black mud and the way the jetty was designed, I don't think I'd have been able to haul myself out of the water.
I have to make do with pouring water over myself from a bottle.

It was a lovely peaceful camp spot.

Lot of Gang gang cockatoos came to drink at the little creek that ran though the campsite.
But then.....after the sun set we were beset by squadrons of mossies and I had to beat a hasty retreat
to the tent.

Day 2.
The gaggle of school kids passed us before we had set sail, weaving back and forth across the river.
Then we set off and lo and behold within the first hour we saw another platypus.
This one came and checked out G in the back of the canoe....and disappeared lickety-split!

Today we had more breaks as bits of me were certainly aching. The current carried us along a bit if we had a rest from paddling.

Our destination was Bowds. Another snuggly campsite with a water tank instead of a spring for water.
Thankfully the mossies stayed away her, but once again it was an awkward little jetty for getting out of the river.
A lot of the other landings had bigger jetties and/or wooden docks with actual ladders to get out of the water.
We'll know next time!

Bowds campsite

Day 3.
The longest day, because instead of getting out at Donovans Landing and getting a lift back to Nelson, we decided to push on to Isle of Bags which was very close to the caravan park in Nelson.
We also knew that the weather was going to change with a strong southerly.

In the morning the river flows through a limestone gorge and is very scenic.
There are also some caves you can visit, Princess Margaret Rose Cave you have to pay.
But we didn't think we had enough time, so we pushed on.

So far we'd been travelling in a roughly westerly direction, but just before Donovan's Landing the river crosses into South Australia and as if it doesn't like what it sees...it swings around and goes back into Victoria.
So....after we stopped for lunch at Donovans we were heading directly into a strong wind.
Yikes!
It was hard work.
We had to keep stopping and hanging on to a tree or a sign which was in the river.
We passed the school lads who were lying sprawled out on the bank. Exhausted.

You know you are approaching civilisation again as you pass the shack settlement of Dry Creek
There are two sections of the river than are waterski zones and in one of them a boat offered to give us a tow.
Which was interesting. And maybe a bit dangerous.
But they towed us along a really exposed stretch and we were grateful.
Apart from getting soaking wet from the extra waves.

Then we weren't too far from Simpson's Landing and we landed there.
By this time I was quite cold and soaked to the skin.

G ran off to get the car and we were soon home and dry.

It was quite an achievement for us
And totally exhausting!

Day 1. Moleside Landing to Skipworth Springs. 13.7 kms.
Day 2. Skipworth Springs to Bowds. 14.4 kms.
Day 3. Bowds to Simpsons Landing. 20.2 kms.

We stayed in Kywong Caravan Park in Nelson.

All camping is booked through Parks Victoria.

Canoe hire and guided tours are available from Nelson Canoe and Boat hire, and Paestan Canoe Hire.

A little piece of paradise on the North Coast.

Pst....do you want to know a secret?

OK, I'll tell you as long as you don't tell anyone else!!

There is a little piece of paradise on the North Coast of New South Wales....

It's Wooli River Lodges at Wooli.
(I will say from the start that the Wooli River Lodges is owned by friends of ours....)

But why do I say that it is paradise?

Because -

1. Wooli is a totally unspoilt little town on the north coast of New South Wales.
It's one of those secret places you don't want anybody else to know about.
There is a river and beautiful beaches, great surfing spots, probably great fishing too.

2. Wooli River Lodges are in a fabulous location, on a side-branch of Wooli Creek.
So you can put your boat, canoe or kayak right in there.
You can paddle up the creek into Yuraygir National Park or downstream towards the estuary.

3. In keeping with the township, the lodges are low-key. It's a very relaxing place to be.
The cabins are light and airy, well-equipped and you don't feel as if you are all squished in together.

4. There are canoes for hire, a swimming pool and a communal camp kitchen with barbeques etc.

5. Next door there is a little shop and the pub, which has very acceptable pizzas.

6. You can ride your bike around the town and there are bike tracks in the surrounding bush and National park.

7. It's the perfect base for bushwalks into Yuraygir National Park or for doing the coastal track from Yamba to Minnie Waters.

8. You have beautiful sunsets too.

Grafton is the nearest big town and you can fly there or go by train as well as drive yourself.

Check it out -
Wooli River Lodges.
wooliriverlodges.com.au

Wilson's Promontory - not quite a walk in the park

In February we wandered around Victoria and it seemed a good time to tackle the classic circuit in Wilson's Promontory National Park - or The Prom as it is called.
There are a few variations on the classic circuit, but this is what we did.

Day 1.
Started at Tidal River where the park headquarters are and a big campsite.
Drove to Telegraph saddle and parked the car.
Walked in an anticlockwise direction, so headed to our first camp at Roaring Meg.
Mostly along a fire trail, but there is beautiful forest on either side.
You follow the route of the old telegraph, evidence of which is still there.
Roaring Meg is set in the forest near a creek and there is on the terrace above the creek or creekside.

4 hours walking.

Day 2.
Left tent and packs and walked down to the southernmost point on the mainland.
It's a very scenic, but windy spot.
Had lunch.
Packed up and walked to the lighthouse.
The way again is on a firetrail for a while but then it ends and as you follow the foottrack and round a corner you glimpse the lighthouse. Spectacular!
The lighthouse is in an amazing location, as many lighthouse are.
The last little bit up to the lighthouse is quite challenging and we were so thankful that the caretaker
was out and about and took our backpacks in his 4WD for us.

It is highly recommended to stay here. There is very comfortable accommodation with bunk beds, but BYO bedding or you can hire.
There is a well-equipped kitchen, but again, BYO food and drinks, although there was tea and
coffee.
The caretakers Renata and Colin are delightful and welcomed us and showed us around.
We felt privileged to have a tour of the lighthouse and museum by Colin, one of the caretakers.
The resident wombats make it just that bit more special.

3 hours + 2.5 hours.

Day 3.
We sadly bade farewell to the lighthouse to continue on to our next campsite at Little Waterloo Bay.
The walking is so pleasant, through forests and ferny groves, with glimpses back to the lighthouse.
Up and down to Waterloo Bay and up and down again to Little Waterloo Bay where the campsite is tucked in behind the dunes.

6 hours.

Bespoke windshield for cooker

Day 4.
A hot day so we were grateful to be walking along beaches where we could cool off.
The track goes up over headlands and down to beaches a fair bit.
Lunch at Refuge Bay where there is a campsite, but just a wallaby and a snake were there.
Camped at Sealers Cove which is a pretty popular place.

6 hours 45 minutes.

Day 5.
Left Sealers Cove. You have to get the tides right here because the tide comes right up the beach and you cannot walk along it at high tide.
The next part is along a beautiful ferny boardwalk.
Then it is all uphill, but a steady climb to Windy Saddle and then mostly downhill back to Telegraph Saddle.
Back at the car

About 5 hours.

All the campsites need to be booked and walkers must register at the park office.
The campsites all have water which should be treated before drinking, and there are pit toilets. BYO toilet paper.
You can book campsites on-line.
You can also book for the lighthouse on-line. It is pretty expensive - but it is a special treat.

Go to Parks Victoria website for more info.

A sojourn in the Hunter Valley.

It was a surprise for G's birthday. We tend not to do big gifts these days but rather treat each other

(and ourselves) to experiences.

This deal popped up on Living Social and it seemed OK. I checked the reviews on booking.com and Trip Advisor and

....yep, that'll do.

We haven't been to the Hunter Valley....for ever!

It used to be THE wine area in Australia (after the Barossa) but apparently these days - not so much.

However there are heaps of wineries there...

Our accommodation was at Bimbadeen Estate tucked under the hills on the far side of Cessnock,

with an absolutely fabulous view.

There are 6 cottages there with a mini kitchen, (microwave, no cooker) and a breakfast hamper is provided.

and with our deal we got a free bottle of the estate wine!
It was beautiful sitting out on the terrace overlooking the valley, over to the coast and up to Barrington Tops.

Just below us was restaurant Molines, reputed to be the best in the valley.

Unfortunately it wasn't open when we were there.

The next day we walked done the hill to Petersons winery - a stonesthrow away.....over 1 hour later!

It was a lovely morning for a walk!!
Petersons came recommended and didn't disappoint. We picked up some wines later when we drove down.

Our place of rest was so quiet and relaxing, we almost didn't want to go out anywhere.

But we managed to fit in a couple more wineries, a cheese shop, Hunter Valley Gardens,
an olive shop, an alpaca shop, a lunch and a dinner out.

Peterson's winery

Briar Ridge winery

David Hook wines

First Creek wines

Hunter Valley Gardens

Sculpture garden at Mistletoe wines

World's smallest risotto at the Royal Oak

The deck at Gartelmann wines from The Deck cafe

This is where we went -

- Petersons winery
- Pukara Estate for olives, oils and relishes
- Binnorie cheese
- Briar Ridge winery
- The Deck for lunch
- First Creek Wines
- Mistletoe Winery
- David Hook wines
- Gartelmann Wines
- 221 Restaurant, Royal Oak Hotel. World's smallest risotto.

But with over 130 wineries stretching over the whole area there is plenty to go back for.