Streets of Bolzano

Streets of new and strange towns are endlessly fascinating.
We stayed right in the heart of the main shopping area of Bolzano, in the historical centre.

Bikes and pedestrians only here!

Our arcaded street was filled with the brightest and best stores.

I feel right at home here!

A wonderful old-style haberdashery was just under or apartment.

Here is a peep inside - 

Another gorgeous old wool shop and haberdashery.

And of course there is the market.
This one runs every day from early in the morning until evening.

The best way to get around is by bicycle.

The main square with the Duomo and ringed by cafes and restaurants.

But this little gem was down a side street.
Unfortunately we didn't try it.

Some of the streets hint at Bolzano's past as a crossroads in Europe.

Our street where you could almost shake hands with your neighbour across the street!

But wait!
There is another market.
This one is a real local farmer's market, just on Fridays.
Where you can buy cheese direct from the cheesemaker.

And of course the locals do their shopping by bicycle.

48 hours in Milan

You do your research, ok?
But sometimes it doesn't always turn out as you expected.
I guess one of the problems is that we are not used to such crowds as you get in Europe's hot spots.
It always takes me by surprise how many tourists there are and how often you have to line up to see stuff.
Oh well, maybe we have learned a lesson.

1. Pre-book The Last supper.
Apparently it books up months in advance.
I looked the week before and couldn't get anything.
You could also try a tour which is a lot more expensive but at least you'll get to see it.
This was something that I wasn't too fussed about seeing, but it is supposed to be impressive so maybe I should have made more effort.
Next time?!

2. Pre-book the Duomo.
You can buy your ticket on-line. this saves queuing up in the ticket area but you will still have to queue to get into the Cathedral.
It costs 3 euros entry to the Duomo.
You can get various packages that include the roof terraces and the Duomo museum and other places.
Booking on-line costs 0.50 Euros more than lining up.
For booking tickets visit here.
For general info  http://www.duomomilano.it/en/
There  are dress requirements if you want to go into the Duomo, but not the terraces or the museums.
You must have your shoulders covered - men and women, and not short shorts or mini skirts ( I think just above the knee is OK). You can buy some, er, very attractive jackets to cover your immodesty. Or just bring a scarf or just don't wear your skimpiest outfit that day.

It is totally worth it to visit the Duomo.
It is totally magnificent.
It is huge and it took over 600 years to build.
When it was designed in the 1300's they didn't have the skills and knowledge to build it. They had to invent new methods.

Probably visit early in the day or later.
We went back at 2pm on Monday and the queue had gone.

Also get up onto the roof terraces.
You can climb the stairs, which isn't really very hard.
Or there is a lift option.
Just do it.

3. Some things are closed on Mondays.

4. Some things are closed on Sundays.

5. Getting around is easy. Public transport is good and cheap.
Get a 24 hour ATM for 4.50 Euros.
It's good for metro, trams and buses.
Buy it at convenience stores.

6. To get from the main international airport, Malpensa, get the shuttle bus to Central Station.
They leave frequently and cost 8 Euros. Takes one hour. There are taxis at Central Station to take you to your final destination, or buses or the metro.

Canal district - Navigli Grande

We also visited Castello Sforzesco which is another old amazing building.

It is now full of museums.
So much beautiful old treasures!
You can also see Michelangelo's last, uncompleted work.
It has a whole enormous display space to itself.
It is pretty special.

We strolled through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the oldest shopping centre in the world?
It's easy to find right next to the Duomo.

We found yummiest gelato at Ciacco Gelato. Pistachio (of course), lime and ginger, and fig. Oh my!!

There were lots of things we didn't do in Milan.
We didn't go shopping.
Or go to the designer quarter.
Or go to La Scala.
Or go to galleries.
But there is only so much you can fit in 48hours.

Here we go again!! Where?? There...

Europe here we come!

Yes, we are off again.
The purpose of this trip is to do some via ferratas* in the Dolomites on Northern Italy, meet up with our danish-resident son, follow the trends to Iceland and visit a place I've been waiting to go to since I was 20!

It looks like we'll be all over the place.
And indeed we will be darting around.
This is due to the time of year as it will be cold already in Denmark by the time we get there and so we decided to fly south and chase the sun including Albania! How cool is that?
I'll let you know how it goes!

*via ferratas are climby things using ladders and things in norther Italy and other places around there.
They were originally built during WW1 to move troops around the mountains and are now used by outdoor enthusiasts.

Things I learned about Venice - travel tips

1. If you arrive in Venice via Marco Polo airport (I believe this is the main international airport) you can get to Venice by boat. Buy your ticket at the airport. There are 3 routes that go to different parts of Venice. Then you walk to the jetty - takes about 10 mins.
It took us about 1 and a quarter hours to get from the airport to Arsenale stop.
There are also water taxis which are quicker, but are a lot more expensive.

2. If you hire a car when you leave Venice the easiest spot to pick up from is probably the airport. That way you can get a return ticket on the airport boat.

3. You can also pick up a hire car actually in Venice where the causeway from the mainland terminates - Piazza Roma. This is the only part of Venice that actually has vehicles.
Or you can pick up your car in Mestre which is the nearest place on the mainland (which is what we did)

4. You can also leave Venice by train from the station at the end of the causeway near Piazza Roma.

5. When you get on the train to Mestre do not believe the woman who said that Mestre is the first stop - it may or may not be! Then you are stranded in a weed-blown station with the next stopping train an hour and a half later!

6. For getting around in Venice buy a multi-use ticket on the vaporettos (passenger ferries). You can get them for 12/24/36/48/72 hours or for 1 week.
72 hours cost 35 euros.
Also get the extra Vaporetto d'art ticket which costs 10 euros. It is well worth it to hop on and off, especially in the middle of the day when the regular boats going along the Grand Canal are packed to the gunnels.
There is a commentary on board the vaporetto d'art as well as wi-fi and nice helpful tourist guides.

7. Buy a Venice Card for free entry to 11 museums and discount to other museums and special tours, plus entry to 16 churches. It cost us 40 euro.

8. Venice is busy!
To avoid queues to get in to the Basilica San Marco go early (before 9.45) or later in the day about 4ish.
The day trippers and tour groups start arriving about 10am.
The Basilica doesn't take very long to go through unless you include some side tours - Palo d'Oro and the museum and treasury which cost extra.(all close at 4pm.
Don't bother with the treasury.

9. Another busy place is the Palazzo Ducal (The Doge's Palace).
Get there when it opens at 8.30 am.
It takes a couple of hours to get through - but is very worthwhile.

10. Fit in as many churches as you can - they all have masterpieces on the walls and ceilings.

11. Our museum of choice - Ca'Rezzonica.
But we didn't go to Galleria dell'Accademia of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection both of which come well-recommended.

12. The best toilets can be found in the museums!
Palazzo Ducale has a particularly lovely one on the ground floor - expect to queue later in the day.

13. Your multi boat ticket includes Murano and Burano which is a great day trip. Get off at Murano first and then go to Burano (or the other way round). There boat goes from one to the other (it wasn't obvious from the map)

14. It is easy to walk around Venice.
Wear comfy shoes.
Get a map - we didn't get lost once! There are signs in the central part to San Marco and the Rialto bridge.

15. Hop on the Vaporetto d'Art or a regular vaporetto to Isola di San Giorgio - opposite the
Grand Canal entrance - and take the lift to the top of the belltower for great views.

16. Be aware that in most museums, the Basilica, Palazzo Ducale you will have to check your backpack. (The Basilica bag check is across the square)

17. Also be aware of clothing requirements. Bare shoulders are not allowed in the Basilica - ladies, take a scarf of shirt, guys take a shirt to cover up with. They also are not supposed to let bare knees in but I think they seemed a bit more lax with this.

18. Eat chocolate brioche for breakfast.

19. Other good stuff - cicheti - bar snacks. Can be good or can be greasy and cold!
Crostini - open sandwiches.
Panini - great fresh bread rolls.
Prosecco - lovely sparkling wine, lighter than champagne.
Spritz - refreshing prosecco cocktail.

20. If you can - stay in Venice.
Staying in Venice is not cheap but has so many advantages. A place on the Grand Canal might be nice - but cost mega-bucks and could be noisy.
More reasonably priced places can be found in the quieter neighbourhoods - Castello, Cannaregio and near the station.
A good read about why you should stay in Venice and some eating out tips by Johanna Reid of Traveleater that I found on Mallory on Travel.

Views of Venice