Showing posts with label central australia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label central australia. Show all posts

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Why would you go here?

For gold of course!
It has to be one of the most god-forsaken places.
Truly, but it has left a wonderful legacy of photo ops.

Arltunga is a ghost town now, but was the earliest settlement in central Australia when gold was discovered in 1887.
There must be something about the gold in them thar hills because prospectors had to get here overland from Oodnadatta, 600kms away, mostly on foot!
Have you seen the country around there?
They must have been keen or mad.

There wasn't much water there and not that much gold either.
The town died in 1912.
So that is sad but it has been preserved and you can go down a mine and poke around in some other mines where there may be bats.
That is pretty cool.

looking for bats

just the frame left of this house

it's perfectly safe

my new installation for sculptures by the sea

restored policestation

tiny house

Assayer's residence

bleak outlook



maybe there are bats in this one


Monday, September 15, 2014

We go East.

We spent 3 lovely nights at Trephina Gorge campsite.
Well it was lovely after we managed to disentangle the caravan from a fence that came too close!

It's a lovely peaceful spot and we had a great view of the red cliffs we have come to know and love.

The gorge is different, with a wide sandy bottom and not a drop of water in sight.

We spent another day exploring the ruins of Arltunga, the earliest settlement in central Australia, apparently.
It was once a thriving gold town.
Well, you know I love a good ruin or two.
Plus there was the excitement of climbing down into a mine and scrambling about in another one that had resident bats.

We tested our 4WDing skills with a drive to N'dhala gorge with it's petroglyphs (rock carvings)



and to John Hayes rockhole.



With a stop at Ross River resort in between.
Another homestead "resort" but the old building had a bit of charm......and a resident hound!





Emily Gap which is only 16kms from Alice Springs has caterpillar dreaming rock art. -


 Jessie Gorge is just a couple of kms further down the road.



Trephina Gorge -









East or West which is best? Or big macs or little macs?



The West Macdonald ranges are longer, bigger, more regular and are covered more by national parks.
They have more gorges but also more visitors.
More campsites but bigger drives.

The east macs can be seen in a day, but you need a 4WD to get to some of the gorges.

You can also walk the west macs, along the Larapinta Trail which takes at least 2 weeks start to finish.
(We didn't, although G did section 12 which is the ascent of Mount Sonder).

We first of all stayed at the west end of the west macs, before the serious 4WD drive road begins.
Here is lovely little Redbank gorge and magnificent Mount Sonder, well known for Albert Namatjira's art.
At the opening of the gorge is an icy cold rockhole which makes exploration without a wetsuit impossible. All the waterholes are somewaht chilly and signs warn of hyperthermia even in summer!
On the day that G did the Mount Sonder thing I walked part of the way to a saddle and then a lookout. Unfortunately it was a cloudy day - not so good for photos.
The woodland campground at Redbank gorge was one of my favorites - nicely spaces sites, each with their own table and benches, pit fireplace and a gas barbeque and 2 hot plates - at each campsite!
It was byo water and wood though.









We popped in to Glen Helen Resort, mainly so G could have a swim in the gorge rockhole, but despite getting more sun than Redbank Gorge it was C.O.L.D.
He went in anyway.
The "resort" is not what you would expect - it is more of a homestead camp, but there is a nice verandah out the back with views over the gorge walls.





Another day we went to Ormiston Gorge which is a popular spot as there are hot showers! But the campsite looked a bit cramped.
Anyway there is a really fabulous walk - from the camping area to Ormiston Pound which is a huge plain enclosed by rocky crags and then through the gorge back to the main area. This involves wading through waist deep water for a couple fo metres.
Yes, it was chilly, but so refreshing after a couple of hours walk.
Also refreshing were the cold drinks from the kiosk afterwards!









Then it was time to move on - to Ellery Big Hole Campsite.
Ellery Big Hole really does have a big waterhole and it is almost bearable to swim in - at least some crazy people seemes to think so.
Also some crazy people decided to carry their canoe down and then try and paddle into a raging headwind to get through the gap and see what was the other side. One of those crazy people was also terrified!







A short drive from Ellery Creek was Serpentine Gorge with a climb to a lookout and a little rock hole that was well frequented by all sorts of birds - finches, budgies, ducks.



On the way back to Alice we stopped at Standley Chasm which is spectacular. A really narrow cleft in the red rock.
We had to bypass Simpson's Gap as we were running on empty and just managed to make it back to town.

Lookout for my post about the East Macs, when I next have the internets.